Wat Suandok, immediately next door to my hotel, is a sprawling complex that includes, in addition to its two main temples, a massive, gold-domed stupa enshrining remains of the Buddha, the busy campus of a major Buddhist University, and the revered tombs of Thai royalty dating back to the 14th century. For Thais it is hallowed ground of the highest order.
It also is the site of various fairs, student field trips, community health services, funeral services, and celebrations to mark the many Buddhist holidays and Lunar occasions. But, except for daily visitors- most of them on packaged tours, it is a Thai place. And much of what happens there is announced or posted only in Thai.
Almost every day Duang and I pass through the wat grounds, either walking to lunch and back, or on her motorbike heading further afield. When I see billboards or sheets that indicate something is happening at the wat I usually ask her to translate for me.
Ten days ago this sheet appeared in front the main wat. Duang explained that a very high ranking monk from Wat Buph Pharam in town had died at age 91. His name was Pha Thep Veehsutthikwun (my phonetic spelling). After a period of celebration and prayer at his wat, he was to be moved in a long, elaborate procession, perhaps four miles, to Wat Suandok on the afternoon of the 25th. For two days he would be honored and prayed for, and then, on the evening of the 28th, he would be cremated here. In the ten years I've lived here I've seen only two cremations at Wat Suandok. The first was a parallel celebration at Wat Suandok for a for a member of the royal family- the actual cremation took place in Bangkok. The 2nd, I think, was for a member of one of Chiangmai's aristocracy. When Duang explained this to me I knew right away that this would be an important event, but I had no clue how important, how momentous, and how impressive it would be.
By the next morning construction of the bier was already underway. They must have been working most of the night. Dried lumber and building materials were scattered about.
Alongside the wat other parts appeared overnight. It was obvious that much time and effort had already gone into preparation. A clue to what the final bier will look like is in the upper right on the announcement sheet, first photo.
Pha Thep Veehsutthikwun
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